6 Ways to Explore Halifax for Free

Taking things for granted is an easy thing to do these days, and I’m guilty of taking Halifax for granted sometimes. Going through cycles of frustration over the ways it’s changing. Excited for its growth but annoyed by how it’s being executed. I participate in the ways I can to try to make it just a little better, because I really believe in the potential that lies in our city. I’m realizing now, that this is a weird way to start a blog about free things to do around Halifax, but for me sharing the good things about this city with new visitors reminds me how much there is to love about it. Because as a person who actually lives here and sees it’s dysfunction, I sometimes find it hard to remember to take the time to be grateful for what we do have. So here is a very short list of some free and worthy things to do in Halifax.

1. Visit The Central Library 

Everyone always asks me why this tops many lists of recommended things to do in Halifax, and those lists are absolutely right: Halifax's Central Library is a must-see, whether you're a book-lover or simply a fan of clever design. This modern architectural gem isn’t just about books (even if it’s designed to look like them)—it’s about the experience. As you step inside, you’ll find yourself surrounded by light-filled spaces, cozy nooks, and if you time it right you might be able to catch something from their outstanding programming. But the real treat is the rooftop. With generous views of the city and harbor, you can take in the sights while sipping on a coffee. The library is open to everyone, so pull up a chair and read a chapter in your book, or grab a magazine off the shelf— the design is so stunning you might feel like you've stepped into a magazine yourself. It’s worth taking the time to check out every floor, there is something surprising around every corner. 

2. Catch a Sunset on Citadel Hill 

I don’t take advantage of this one nearly enough, but I took a wander through a couple evenings ago and need to tell you: Citadel Hill is Halifax’s very own natural amphitheater for one of the most stunning sunset shows around. Pick any angle because there isn’t a bad one, though we do recommend watching the harbourside, there’s something impressionistic about the way the sunset is reflected back to you in multiple textures. We are sure you will find that the climb up to the hill is well worth the pain. The historic fort atop the hill adds to the surreality of the scene, making it feel as though you’ve stepped into a postcard. Bring a blanket and maybe a thermos of something warm, and prepare to be awed by nature’s performance.

3. Thursday Nights at Art Gallery of Nova Scotia 

The Art Gallery of Nova Scotia is just the right size to be enjoyably explored by even the most begrudging tag along in your party, and here's a little secret: admission is free from 5pm to 9pm on Thursday nights. Whether you’re an art aficionado, curious, or think art is absolutely not for you, this gallery offers a vibrant collection of exhibitions for everyone. The keystone piece that will steal anyone’s heart is the story and whimsical work of Maud Lewis, one of Nova Scotia's most beloved folk artists. You can even step into a recreation of her tiny, colorful house—it's a warm, inviting glimpse into her life and art. Thursday evenings are perfect for thoughtful perusal of it’s exhibits. 

4. Skating at the Oval 

Though it is enjoyable to skate all year round, it’s when the Canadian winter sets in and finally things start to freeze that Halifax’s Oval turns to magic—whether you’re a skating pro or someone who hasn’t quite got the hang of it, there is a place for you at the oval.  It’s free to use, and they even lend you skates for all seasons! So, whether you’re flapping your arms praying not to break your knees or channeling your inner Michelle Kwan, the Oval offers a memorable experience every visit.

5. Take a Stroll at Point Pleasant Park 

Point Pleasant Park is Halifax’s escape from the urban bustle—a leafy green oasis right on the edge of the Atlantic. Whether you’re in the mood for a casual walk through the woods, a jog along the waterfront, or a quiet moment on a park bench, you’ll find what you need. This place has a way of making me escape whatever exists outside of it and hit the reset button. Haligonians know we are spoiled by the amount of parks in our city, and this place with it’s weird historic relics, forts, friendly wildlife,and so many dogs, is special among them. It’s free to explore, and every corner offers something new, secret trails, berry picking, stunning views of the north west arm, another place we like to watch the sunset. And if you time your visit right for low tide, you might even see seals basking on the rocks. 

6. Treat Yourself at Halifax Brewery Market 

Located on Lower Water Street, the brewery’s iconic façade and its surroundings offer a glimpse into Halifax’s rich history as a port city. The brewery itself, founded in the 1820s, is still a recognizable landmark. Though we are certain you will be tempted by the aroma of freshly baked bread or the sight of local crafts, the Brewery Market is free to explore every Saturday 7-11 am. A real treat for the senses, walking old stoned hallways, listening to local music, and inspiring culinary delights. Take a stroll through the area and you might start to feel the history that unfolded here.

In some ways this does tie back with thoughts on last week's blog— the infrastructural needs of a growing city and the need for the economy to grow to support them. I fully understand the complications of the issue, but wonder every day that for a city leaning heavily into tourism as a revenue generator, do we not need to also protect the things that make people want to visit here? And then the deeper question of how do we keep people still wanting to live here? In a city with a fast growing cost of living, finding free things to do becomes important for everyone.

The Hidden Cost of Cruise Ship Tourism in Nova Scotia

Heavy fog rolls out of the Halifax Harbour, presenting a familiar scene. Like ants tumbling out of a disturbed nest, human bodies move across the decks of a cruise ship, ready to make their descent. Just 40 minutes before this behemoth of a boat (think about the comparison of a modern cruise ship to the Titanic) docked, there was only the occasional jogger, maybe a dog walker or two, and of course, the fog—the usual quiet scene of a city waking up.

I’m waiting by our tour van, a block away, where I can be visible to our guests but far enough to obey a law (one I still don’t understand but will look into for another piece) that doesn’t let a tour operator with my type of license or insurance—or whatever bureaucratic misery it is—get any closer. This scene is exactly what I promised to avoid, and part of the reason I started Alternative Routes. But in a small Canadian province like Nova Scotia, where the tourism bureau seems to be pushing out passionate travelers who want authentic experiences in favor of a fast-food tourism model, I started to feel like I didn’t have much choice but to get on board—figuratively, of course.

And speaking of disturbed nests, as I started digging into the research on cruise ships, the mound grew bigger and bigger, and the facts more and more disturbing. The story started getting a little bigger than just this blog, so I’m hoping to expand this into a longer piece in the future, so stay tuned. But for now, here are some of the most shocking facts I’ve found so far:

1. Cruise Ships Often Avoid Paying Taxes by Registering Under "Flags of Convenience

Cruise ships dock in Nova Scotia’s ports, like Halifax, but register under flags of convenience to avoid paying Canadian taxes. While they take advantage of our infrastructure, they contribute little to local revenues. Cruise lines typically avoid stricter regulations and taxes by registering in countries with lenient laws and low or no taxes, such as Panama, Bermuda, or the Bahamas. In fact, over  70% of the global cruise fleet is registered under such "flags of convenience, meaning they avoid the higher taxes they’d face in the U.S., Europe, or Canada. On top of this, cruise ships can purchase fuel tax-free under international maritime law, reducing their fuel costs by as much as 40%, which boosts their profits.

2. Cruise Lines Pay Crew Members Just Pennies on the Dollar

While it’s true that jobs are created for Nova Scotians (I personally know a few musicians who play on cruise ships and earn a fair Canadian wage), many crew members are paid just $500 per month, plus tips, while working up to 12 hours a day for months at a time. Cruise lines often employ low-wage labor from countries with less stringent labor laws,, meaning these workers endure long hours and few benefits, while the companies avoid paying wages that would align with local standards—undermining the Canadian labor market. In September 2000, Premier Cruise Lines folded and left hundreds of workers stranded in Halifax.The Canadian court system repatriated them and awarded lost wages amounting to $745,000.

3. Local Communities Get Little Return from Shore Excursions

While many cruise passengers take part in shore excursions in Nova Scotia, most of the revenue from these activities goes directly back to the cruise lines. Local businesses often see very little of the money, as excursions are either organized and operated by the cruise lines themselves, or heavily controlled by them. This is the reason I have to wait a comfortable distance away when picking up passengers from a cruise ship—it feels like a clandestine affair, and I still don’t fully understand why. 

Halifax welcomed roughly 370,000 cruise passengers in 2024, generating an estimated $136 million for the city and surrounding areas. I’d like to see more detailed reports to understand exactly where that money goes once it leaves passengers’ hands. What I could find is that those numbers basically come from thin air.  It is a significant amount, but we also need to weigh it against what it costs the city to have these ships here.

4. The Cruise Industry Contributes to Overcrowding and Environmental Degradation in Port Cities

The sudden influx of cruise passengers creates congestion in Halifax and other small coastal towns like Lunenburg and Sydney. Local infrastructure struggles to keep up, and areas that rely on tourism face overcrowding, which drives up prices and damages the local atmosphere. The peaceful mornings of joggers and dog walkers are often replaced by crowds and chaos during the cruise season. Cruise ships bring thousands of passengers into port cities at once, often overwhelming local infrastructure and contributing to environmental damage. In places like Venice and the Galápagos Islands, cruise tourism has led to overtourism, where local communities face ecosystem damage, higher prices, and overcrowded attractions—all while cruise lines continue to profit. The growth of cruise tourism has put significant strain on local infrastructure in Nova Scotia. Take Peggy’s Cove, our most overtouristed location. The first phase of upgrades done in 2020 cost $9.7 million, and that’s just the first phase. It doesn’t account for wear and tear on our piers or the roads and bridges leading there.

5. Cruise Ships Are Often Exempt from Local Environmental Laws

Due to international maritime law, cruise ships are governed by the laws of the country under which they are registered, not the countries they visit. This allows cruise lines to bypass local environmental regulations, enabling them to dump untreated sewage and waste into sensitive marine environments. Despite regulations, cruise ships are responsible for dumping millions of gallons of untreated sewage, graywater, and toxic waste into the oceans each year. One cruise ship can discharge up to 210,000 gallons of untreated sewage, and some companies have faced massive fines for pollution violations. In June 2023, Canada introduced new restrictions that prohibit cruise lines from dumping treated sewage and graywater within 3 nautical miles of the shore. I plan to dig into this more—it’s one of those things that feels like disturbing an ant’s nest. The more I uncover, the more questions arise, and maybe it’s more like a hornet’s nest.

On top of this, cruise ships are major contributors to underwater noise pollution, bring invasive species into our ecosystems, and are significant carbon polluters. In fact, a cruise ship sitting in your harbor for a few hours can be like putting an extra 16,000 cars on the road. One cruise ship can emit as much sulfur oxide as 1 million cars. The global cruise fleet is responsible for around 4% of global marine emissions, and the engines often use heavy fuel oil, which is far more polluting than other types of fuel.

What started as a small inquiry into the way these ships impact Nova Scotia has turned into a much larger story—one that deserves a deeper dive, which I hope to tackle in the future. But for now, these six facts should be enough to spark some thought about the cost of mass tourism in our small, beautiful province, and the hidden truths that often get swept beneath the giant hulls of these cruise ships.

Tools for Focus: Boosting Productivity as a Busy Entrepreneur.

Not to disappoint you off the hop, but this blog isn’t going to solve all your problems and make you more productive. I’m not sure that blog exists, and believe me, I’ve looked—maybe you have too if you’re stumbling onto this. All this is, is a little list of the tools I plan to use to tackle my problems with productivity in 2025. Some I’ve already tried and found useful, and some are new to me that I hope will be just as effective.

And who am I? You’ve either found me because you’re a friend, an Alternative Routes alum, or follow my disability advocacy, or maybe you’re just really into productivity and somehow the algorithm got you here. I’m just an entrepreneur with a disability who, without the structure of a usual 9-to-5 job, finds themselves drowning in diverting streams of focus without knowing which direction to follow. Most entrepreneurship lacks structure; we don’t have a job description, and the list of tasks to complete is never-ending. So figuring out how to prioritize them without burning out should help me be better at my job. This year, I am determined to tackle the list and manage my time more efficiently.

This is a short list of the real tools I am going to use to try to find my way to a more productive workflow. Sharing them is another tool I’m trying, because if I put this all out there to an audience, I’ll feel more accountable to the effort. Maybe, along the way, I can help you, and you can help me, and that’s productivity squared—or something.

Full Focus Planner:

Listen, I’m not proud to admit it, and I sure hope it was worth spending hours of my time on, but last week I dove deep on YouTube into the world of planners and agendas. Did you know there are hours of videos reviewing productivity planners? This may not be a shock to you, but I’m pretty new to YouTube. I struggled with the price tag of this one. I won’t tell you what it is because you can go look for yourself and decide if it’s worth it. Initially, I couldn’t justify the price either (and please don’t buy it on my advice until I can at least give it a first-hand review), so I bought another one—one that probably would have suited my needs just fine. But I kept longing for the pages I saw of this Full Focus Planner. So, I did it. I ordered it. It still hasn’t come, but I’ve been thinking about how I’ll fill those pages, brainstorming away and trying to live my productivity queen dream since the day I watched those videos. Just the anticipation of how productive I’m going to be once it’s in my hands is making me more productive, so there must be some magic to it, right?

YNAB (You Need a Budget):

You need a budget. And so do I. I really, really do. I’m sure I could go into some psychoanalysis of my spending habits, and the truth is there would be a lot of reasons why they are so terrible. But the biggest one is that I avoid them completely. I have an accountant who is probably far too kind with me, managing the business side of things, but personally, I have no structure for how I deal with my money. This isn’t easy to admit, but I know I’m not alone. Because I’ve managed to run a business for 8 years, people just assume I’m good with this stuff. But knowing how to make money and knowing how best to manage it are two very different things. I think, for those of us who thrive on the creative side of business (with a touch of ADHD), money isn’t the thing we do best. We struggle to care about it because it’s not something that excites us. I have some random savings and investments with no real plan attached to them or understanding if they are the best choices. I have some innate entrepreneurial ability to understand the flow of how and where money is coming from and where it’s going, but no solid picture or plan of what to do with it. Money is numbers, and I really have no excuse for not doing the math. So finally, for the first time in my adult life, I’m going to plug in the numbers. I’m going to know exactly how much my dogs cost me each month, how much I spend eating out, and take a long, hard look at all of my subscriptions and whether or not they are necessary. And maybe this isn’t directly connected to productivity, but just because I don’t like dealing with money doesn’t mean I don’t think about it. Knowing where I stand financially will free up so much space for other, more productive thoughts.

SWEEPY:

The most clever act of self-sabotage I engage in is never putting anything away—making just enough mess so that I always need to be dealing with it. Procrasticleaning is real, and the more of it I have to do, the less productive I am, going forward just to get back to the same place. I just made dinner, and because I’m multitasking by writing this too, the kitchen is a disaster. Did it have to be? No. Why is it that way? Because I didn’t put a single thing away. And why do I do that? Because I need something to do to distract me from more important things, like sitting down to write. That question can keep going deeper, but that is something I will be leaving to the therapist. But this app—trust me when I tell you—when you actually do it and keep up with the list it gives you, I’m able to stay on task without getting overwhelmed. If you keep track of when you’ve cleaned something and how often it needs to be cleaned, you’ll be presented with a daily list of what needs to be done. It can be tempting to go into something else in the room you’re in, but just don’t, and in a week, you’ll have the cleanest house of your life. Another helpful tip is probably something I stole from a childhood (my cousin’s, not mine) TV show called the “ten-second tidy,” but I’ve adapted it to adulthood. When I really just feel overwhelmed and don’t know how to get started, I set a timer for every room in my house—5 minutes, that’s all—then drop whatever you are doing and move on to the next room. For me, I have 5 rooms in my home, so that’s 25 minutes of cleaning. I can definitely schedule that every day, and it’s amazing what you can actually get done in just 5 minutes.

BetterMe:

Some people like to go to the gym, some people like to get on a bicycle and ride for 30 km every evening, some people play sports, and some people run. There are so many ways to get your exercise. Personally, I like to do it from the privacy of my bedroom on a yoga mat for 15-20 minutes a day. I’m not sure what the science is behind it, but I know that when I’ve stuck with it—starting with their 28-day wall pilates challenge—I’ve never been more fit or in less pain. I don’t live for those big highs, and I like mine better when they come from my thoughts. Exercise is not my most favourite thing on the planet. I like to write, read, craft, do puzzles, but I also like my life enough to know I need to take care of my body. Fifteen minutes is something almost anyone can commit to. Something else I like about these exercises is that anyone can do them; mostly, you’re using your own body weight, and you only need to push as far as you can. But if you keep with it, the improvement comes fast. I’m not your doctor, just some girl giving unsolicited advice on the internet, but you should probably get some sort of cardio into that cycle. I hike with the dogs, maybe that’s enough, and maybe it isn’t, but it’s what I can manage and what I enjoy. On top of that, I started taking a dance class once a week—something fun that will keep me engaged.

Meal Planning:

I’m not going to use an app for this one; I’m not sure I need it. But I did dive back deep into those YouTube videos, and I found a method that seems like it might work for me.

Step 1: Make a list of all the meals you like to make.

Step 2: Make a list of all the ingredients you have in your fridge, freezer, pantry, etc.

Step 3: Figure out what meals you can make from your list with what you already have.

Step 4: Pop them into your days of the week.

Step 5: Make a grocery list of the things that are missing.

This has always been a real challenge for me, and I harbour tremendous guilt for the wasted food. Sure, I can blame it on the ADHD, but really sometimes I’m just impulsive, and I have no plan. Planning has always been seen as something I needed to fight against, but really, planning should be welcomed because what it’s doing in the end is saving me time. All the time wasted on extra trips to the grocery store, cleaning out the fridge, or money I didn’t need to spend just because I didn’t plan my day right. I’ve tried meal planning like this this week. It’s only day three, and I’m not staying exactly on the schedule, but I am sticking to the dishes on my list. I’m just finding a better order to do them in. I’m sure this method will improve over time and I’m already enjoying the benefits of not having to think about it.

So, there you have it—my 2025 productivity toolkit. Some tools might work, some might not, and some might just help me feel productive without actually doing much at all (looking at you, Full Focus Planner). But that’s the journey, right? Trial and error, mixed with a little bit of hope that one of these methods will stick and transform me into the productivity powerhouse I dream of becoming. Did you know you can leave comments on these blogs? I’m curious: what tools or tricks do you use to stay on track? Hit me up— this journey will feel so much better with company, we can swap notes, gripe together, or maybe you have a tool or two to share, and hopefully this year we save each other from drowning in a sea of tasks, dishes, and forgotten budgets.

Historic Walking Tour : Downtown Halifax

Stop 1: Citadel Hill (5425 Sackville St, Halifax, NS B3J 3Y3)

Citadel Hill is Halifax’s most well known National Historic Site. It is the highest point in Halifax overlooking the waterfront from above. “Every day, the Citadel comes to life with the sounds and color of its military interpreters, the 78th Highlanders and the Royal Artillery. Dressed in the same uniforms that their respective regiments wore in the mid-1800s, the 78th Highlanders guard the Citadel’s entrance and conduct marching and band drills on the parade grounds.” (NovaScotia, 2024). Once a critical defense fortification for the city, the Citadel now serves as a place for picnics, fireworks, events, concerts, and exploration of the historic site that once protected Halifax.

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Stop 2: Grand Parade Square Halifax (1841 Argyle St. Halifax, NS)

Downhill from the Citadel Hill and towards the waterfront reaches the Grand Parade Square. This square dates back to 1749 when Halifax was first Settled by the British. “The plan stipulated a church at the southern end of the square, and a courthouse and prison at the northern end” (ParksCanada, ND).

Starting at the southern end of the square lies the oldest building in Halifax, St Paul's Church. “This beautiful Church was created in Palladian Architecture, this uses an ancient Greek and Roman style. This church takes after St Peters church in London England and it is the First protestant church in Canada.  

Towards the middle of the square lies the Cenotaph: The Cenotaph was created in the middle of the square as a war memorial paying respects to lost soldiers who lost their lives in WW1, WW11, and the Korean War. The Fallen Peace Officers Memorial is also located within the middle of the square recognizing the Chief of Police, RCMP, Military Police, and other law enforcement individuals who have passed while in the line of duty.

Within the Northern end of the square lies what once was the courthouse and prison within Halifax. When settlers first arrived in Halifax this building was used as the central gathering place, until it was soon turned into Dalhousie University in 1824. This school's location later caused some tensions with religious people within the community, and other Nova Scotian schools, so Dalhousie University changed locations to Robie and Lemarchant street, where it stands today. The city decided to change what once was Dalhousie university into the City Hall, and it still stands today. 

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Stop 4: Province House (1726 Hollis St, Halifax)

Just to the right of Joseph Howe’s statue stands Province House, a historic and architecturally significant building that serves as the heart of Nova Scotia's government. As the oldest legislative building in Canada, Province House has witnessed many pivotal moments in the province's history since its completion in 1819.

Inside Province House, several key areas offer a glimpse into Nova Scotia's political past and present:

• Legislative Library: This space once hosted famous trials. The room that now houses the library was originally designed as a courtroom, complete with a spectator area and judges' bench. Today, the benches have been replaced by library desks and shelves filled with books, yet the space still retains an air of its former importance.

• Legislative Assembly Chamber: This grand chamber is where Nova Scotia’s Legislature meets each year to debate and pass laws. The room is steeped in tradition, with members gathering here to shape the future of the province, just as they have for over two centuries.

• Red Chamber: Once a venue for grand events, receptions, and even balls, the Red Chamber now serves as a reminder of the building's vibrant social history. While it no longer hosts such festivities, its opulent decor and rich history make it a fascinating part of any visit.

• Exhibit Room: This room offers a comprehensive exhibit on the evolution of Nova Scotia’s government. Visitors can explore how the political landscape has changed over the years and learn about the leaders who played significant roles in shaping the province's history. Through interactive displays and historical artifacts, the exhibit provides a deep dive into the workings of government and the legacy of key figures like Joseph Howe.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Province_House_%28Nova_Scotia%29

Stop 3) Joseph Howe Statue - 1690 Hollis St, Halifax,

Within the Province House by the waterfront there is a carved out garden area that holds the statue of Joseph Howe. Joseph had many roles throughout his life. He was a journalist, premier, and politician. He is well known throughout Nova Scotian history for his opinion to reject the idea of confederation. He thought that Canada being a unified nation would hurt Nova Scotia's economy and identity. Once Canada was formed he joined the federal government and advocated for Nova Scotia until he passed in 1873.

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Stop 5: First Bank of Nova Scotia - Now known as Scotiabank

The first bank of Nova Scotia was located on Hollis Street. This consisted first of tellers, a cashier, and one messenger. This bank eventually expanded to P.E.I and St John New Brunswick, and then onto Manitoba, Winnipeg, and the US. Now this Canadian architecture hosts Atlantic Canada's regional office, because it was no longer big enough to be the main bank for Canada. Now Scotiabank is an International name.

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Statue of Lebanese Immigrant (1599 Lower Water St, Halifax, NS)

This statue was made to commemorate the large Lebanese community that immigrated to Canada, some made their way over in the late 1800s without knowledge of what they would find in Nova Scotia when they arrived. They traveled to new land and established a presence here in Canada while facing cultural and language barriers to create growth in generations today. Escaping the Lebanese Civil war in 1973, Canada saw the largest influx of Lebanese immigration to date. It is estimated that 250 000 people of Lebanese origin live in Canada and they make up the largest community of Arabic speakers. And let’s not forget how they cemented themselves here in Halifax by creating (debatably) the most Haligonian food their is: the donair.

https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=139674

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Stop 6: Cows Ice Creamery (1751 Lower Water St, Halifax)

To end off this tour we are are going to bring you into a more modern history because if you’re this close to the waterfront you can’t skip a stop at Cows Ice Cream. Cows was first created in Prince Edward Island in 1983, and so was Sam just a few short years later, and was name Canada’s Best Ice Cream, as well as claiming Tauk World Discoveries top spot for Top Ten Ice Cream Places for Ice Cream in the World! All of their ice cream is made in PEI with Island dairy but can now be found in many cities coast to coast across Canada. There are over 32 flavors produced in Charlottetown today, and we recommend ending off a day of exploring the history of Halifax with this famous sweet treat. So don’t skip a cone, they are mooverlous!

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Sources For Research:

Grand Parade in Halifax, Canada. GPSmyCity. (n.d.). https://www.gpsmycity.com/attractions/grand-parade-44950.html 

Grand Parade. (n.d.). https://www.historicplaces.ca/en/rep-reg/place-lieu.aspx?id=3146

Halifax Citadel National Historic Site: Tourism Nova Scotia, Canada. Tourism Nova Scotia. (n.d.). https://www.novascotia.com/see-do/attractions/halifax-citadel-national-historic-site/1440 

Nagelsb. (2020, October 22). Province House: A self-guided virtual tour. Nova Scotia Legislature. https://nslegislature.ca/get-involved/visit-province-house/virtual-tour 

The scotiabank story. Scotiabank Global Site. (n.d.). https://www.scotiabank.com/ca/en/about/our-company/archives/our-exhibits/the-scotiabank-story.html 

Walking Tour: Lets Explore North End Halifax

Sam and I have worked to create a walking tour for those looking to get out of downtown Halifax and explore more of the North End’s charm! We have compiled a list of our favorite local eateries, and shops and have lots of fun facts to share along the way.

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1) Dee Dee’s Ice Cream (5668 Nora Bernard St, Halifax)

Dee Dee's Ice cream is a north end gem, its the only place around here that can make a breakfast burrito almost as good as their unique ice cream flavours. To start off the tour we recommend starting the day with their 12” wrapped burritos filled with beans, cheese, fresh salsa, and your choice of meat and add-ons.  These burritos are huge and will leave you ready to start the day (food is fuel)!

Hours:

12-9pm tues-sun

Closed Mon

Photo: AR Team

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2) Halifax Commons (5816 Cogswell St, Halifax, NS)

Just a 6 minute walk from Dee Dees lies the Halifax Common. The locals just call it The Commons, and it is considered to be Canada’s oldest urban park. It used to be a place where the citizens of Halifax could bring their livestock to graze, but that was a long time ago. Now it plays host to many festivals and events, and is home to the skating Emera Oval, where in the winter you can rent ice skates in the winter or rollerblades and roller skates in the summer. And new this year, they opened a new public pool and splash pad, which we highly recommend visiting on a hot day. Universal changing rooms and day lockers are available (must bring your own lock). 

Best part is: you can enjoy all of this for free! 

Hours:

Emera Oval current schedule: Here

Swimming Schedule: Here

Photo: AR Team

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3) Good Robot Brewing - The Commons Beer Garden & Good Robot Shop (2223 North Park St, Halifax, NS)

Good Robot has a few great places around HRM, but their outdoor beer garden is where we want to be this summer.  They have plenty beers on tap and unique seltzers, I recommend chatting with the friendly staff if you are not quite sure what you would like to try. I was recommended the passionfruit orange guava seltzer, and it was (for lack of better word) perfect. Good Robot is right off the commons, which is  a great location for a sunset view, and in case you are hungry they have a woodfired oven with some amazing bbq styled food & healthy options (falafel bowl, kale salad, ribs, hotdogs, you name it).

Hours:

12-8pm mon - sun

Photo: AR Team

Photo: AR Team

Photo: AR Team

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4) Slowly Slowly (5685 Cunard Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia)

Slowly slowly is a cute little shop just 8 mins from the commons with great quality items, each item line strategically picked with a story behind it’s creation. There are many different products from women run and locally owned businesses and we recommend giving them a walkthrough if you get the chance.

Hours:

Closed Mondays

Tues - Wed & Sat ~ 11:00am - 5:00pm

Thurs - Fri ~ 11:00am - 6:00pm

Sunday ~ 11:00am - 4:00pm

Photo: AR Team

Photo: AR Team

Photo: AR Team

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5) Cafe Lara (2347 Agricola St, Halifax, NS)

After stopping by Slowly Slowly just a 2 minute walk down Agricola street lies Cafe Lara. This European styled cafe has excellent coffee and is a great spot to recharge before exploring more of the town, or to sit and relax. 

Hours: 8am-6pm daily !

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6) Lost & Found (2383 Agricola St)

Lost & Found has curated secondhand pieces. Local jewelry, fashion, and art. They have a great atmosphere inside with super friendly staff.

Hours:

11am-6pm (Thurs-Sun, Tues-Weds)

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7) HalI Deli (2389 Agricola St, Halifax NS)

Definitely a local greasy spoon, Hali Deli boasts many Jewish favorites like matzo ball soup and brisket, but a lot of people come by for their big and delicious breakfast, we dare you to finish it all!

Hours:

Weekdays: 9:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.

WeekendsL 9 a.m.-3 p.m.

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8) Luke’s small goods (2393 Agricola St, Halifax)

Not even one minute away from Lost & Found is Luke’s Small Goods. They carry simple, authentic baked goods, sandwiches and breakfast items. We recommend stopping in to Luke's while on the way to explore some more or even taking a sandwich to enjoy at Citadel Hill.

Hours:

Monday - Saturday - 8 a.m.–6 p.m.

SundayClosed

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9) The Stillwell Freehouse (2534 Agricola St, Halifax, NS)

The Stillwell Freehouse has great apps and even better beer. They have a open concept space thats great for socializing and coming by with a group if you have the time. They also have a patio outside great for a summertime pint.

MON — THU: 4—12am

Fri & SAT: 12—1am

SUN: 12—11pm

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10) Halifax Vintage co-op (2623 Agricola Street, Halifax NS)

This vintage store has 20+ vendors with amazing thrifted clothing pieces in the upstairs. Dishware, furniture, and more can also be found on their main floor. It’s truly a cool spot to check out while you’re walking by but I don’t need to tell you the photos speak for themselves.

Hours:

11 a.m. - 7 p.m each day

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11) Brothers meat and delicates (2665 Agricola St, Halifax, NS)

This family run business has been a North End staple for over 60 years. They are known for their world famous pepperoni and sausages and we recommend taking some home with you, like the many maritimers living abroad who fill their suitcases on visits “home.”

Hours:

8 a.m - 6 p.m Mon - Sat

Closed Sun

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12) Reiyee Clothing (5765 May St, Halifax, NS)

This vintage store is a gem hidden and you might just miss it when passing on to our next stop but we think it’s a must visit. They have some amazing vintage clothing, furniture, and more that can be bought sold or traded within the store.

Hours:

12-6pm Tues - Sun

12) Agricola Street Books (2684 Agricola St, Halifax, NS)

This two story bookstore has beautiful wooden features and is a great place to stop and find something to read. They will also take a book from guests looking to return old books for store credit.

10 a.m - 6 p.m Mon-Thurs

10 a.m - 8 p.m Fri

9 a.m - 6 p.m Sat

10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Sun

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14) Bar Kismet (2733 Agricola St, Halifax, NS)

Bar kismet was recognized as the best International Restaurant Bar in Forbes 2024 Spirited Awards. This bar was also seen to be 9th best bar in the list of 100 best restaurants in Canada. They have a comfortable dining area with simple and fresh seafood and cocktails served in an enchanting atmosphere.

Hours:

Tues-Sun 5-11pm

Mon: Closed

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15) Espresso 46 (2867 Isleville St, Halifax, NS)

Espresso 46 is in our humble opinion (and many others) home to the best coffee in Halifax.  Locals treat this cafe like it is a community hub, but don’t worry you’re still invited even if you don’t live in the North End. They serve coffee from a window and have indoor and outdoor seating. The owner is Italian and you can see his background shine through the decor and style of this cafe and how he somehow remembers the names and gossip of all his customers. Attached to the cafe is a market with fresh fruit and veggies!

Hours: 8am - 3pm Tues-Sat

Closed Mon & Sun

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16) Hydrostone Market (5547 Young St, Halifax NS)

The Hydrostone Market  is a beautiful turnaround point for our walking tour.  Famous for its unique architecture it was built after the Halifax explosion and has a European feel with a large green boulevard  in the middle with trees and benches you can take a shady break here  and relax. There is some of the best pizza in Halifax offered at Salvatores Pizza, along with Julien's Patisserie Bakery & Cafe, and the Halifax Cheese shop. This is a great place to pick up pizza to go, a sweet treat from the bakery, coffee, and more. The Hydrostone is also just a 5 minute walk from the Fort Needham Memorial Park, which is a great spot to picnic and is a Memorial park honouring the Halifax explosion.

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17) The Narrows (2720 Gottigen Street)

This north end pub took awhile to get going but was well worth the wait. They took an old historic house and renovated it perfectly making it feel like it has been a favorite for years. They often have live music and offer fresh authentic maritime dishes that you usually only find in your grandmother’s  kitchen.

Hours:

Tuesday - CLOSED

Sunday-Thursday 11am - Midnight 

Friday & Saturday 11am-12:30am

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18) Meyvn thrift shop (2240 Gottingen St)

Meyvn is a sweet shop with even sweeter clothes. They carry sustainable clothing for everyone and have lots of fun pieces to pick through if you get the chance to pop in.

Hours:

11am-6pm Tues - Fri

11am-5pm Sat

Closed Mon

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19) Bus Stop Theatre (2203 Gottingen Street)

The Bus Stop Theatre has been operating in Kjipuktuk/Halifax since 2003 and became a co-operative in 2012. One of few professionally equipped black box theatres in town they host theatre performances,of course, but also act as a community arts space for many other events like concerts, movies, workshops and more.

Public Open Hours: Sundays, 1 p.m. to 4 p.m

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20) Radstorm (2177 Gottingen St, Halifax, NS)

Radstorm is a non-profit community arts centre. Their code of conduct is to offer a dry, inclusive, and safe venue for music shows and events. While also hosting a recording studio, events, screen printing,zine library, art exhibitions, and more.

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21) Ratinaud (2157 Gotingen Street)

This shop is home to some of the best charcuterie and cheese you can find in the city. They believe in local and high quality ingredients and prepare everything from saucissson sec, mouth watering rillets, duck prosciutto and so much more in house. And as if that wasn’t enough  to get you in the door they also boast the best cheese selection in the city. This would be a great place to grab some snacks for a Charcuterie board, or for a trip to the Citadel hill to watch the sunset with a beautiful view of the city.

Hours:

10am-6pm Weds-Fri

9am-5pm Sat

10am-5pm Sun

Closed Mon & Tues

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22) Back to Dee Dees for ice cream!!

The final and tastiest stop is Dee Dees again! Who doesn't want to end a walking tour with some well deserved ice cream? They update their flavours in the website each day but we recommend walking in for a surprise, we promise it will be worth it!

Hours:

12-9pm tues-sun

Closed Mon

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Amy’s Shore Lunch Food Truck

Amy’s Shore Lunch Food Truck is the perfect stop for fresh sushi bowls with seasonal ingredients within Lunenburg, Bridgewater, and Blockhouse (daily schedule). I had an amazing time learning about Amy’s business ventures, and what it takes to run and operate a food truck. Amy has been feeding Nova Scotian's fresh (and delicious) sushi for three years now and has perfected her sushi bowls to a tee. Our visit gave my coworker Andrew and I the perfect excuse to grab some yummy sushi from her truck on our tour, and our steak sushi bowls were exceptional. Let's dive into Amy’s story and learn more about what made this business come to life. 

Why did you decide to operate a food truck business?

This was born out of the Pandemic! I was the Sous Chef of Lincon Street Food when I got pregnant in 2019 and then the pandemic happened two weeks after our daughter was born. I couldn't be at work for 11 hours a day and realized it was time to be a cook in another capacity. I focused on my maternity leave about what would be best for me. I did a business class program and learned that I wanted to put myself in a position with low overhead. I didn't want to take out a large loan for a storefront, and being a chef in Lunenburg means working the whole summer as thats when people are here. I was tired of being inside so this was my compromise! I work the whole summer but get to be outside. We built the trailer together in 2021 and have been working since.

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Favorite and Least Favorite Part of working on the road

Least favorite is how labor intensive it is. Lots of reaching, cranking, and pushing goes on to set this all up. My favorite part is working for myself and calling my own shots for the first time in my life.

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Where is the furthest place you have gone?

Petit reverie for a wedding. It was 45 km. I have also gone to oak island a couple of times but the people that stay at oak island do not like my food. It was really quite humorous actually, there were a lot of people from Texas that were like Sushi?!? That's crazy! They were not the right audience.

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Where do you supply your food from?

Most of the veggies come from the farmers market Rumtopf Farm in Lunenburg. I also use Soil Mates Farm and source the rice from two Asian grocery stores in the City.

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On Top of Amy providing cleansing fresh food to Nova Scotians, she also is an extremely talented artist and supermom on the side. To learn more about Amy and her business click here!

Make sure to check out her Instagram for when she might be near you next. ;)

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*Text edited for clarity

A sneak peek into this years Jazz Fest:

I recently got the pleasure to meet Andrew Jackson, the Artistic Director of this years Jazz Fest. For those of you who haven't yet had the pleasure, Andrew is a trombonist and composer born and raised in Halifax, and he has been helping Jazz Festivals come to life for 7 years! I picked Andrew's brain about what to expect from this year's Jazz Fest, upcoming artists, free venues to check out this year, and more! Let's take a closer look into our chat:

Picture of the TD Jazz Festival Stage

What goes into finding artists for each new Festival?

Since it's an international festival we have people coming from all over, which is exciting. It is also a year long event (meaning we start to organize for the next year's festival a year ahead of time). For us, being here on the East Coast, we rely on a lot of touring networks so that artists can play a bunch of different shows in Canada on their way to  the East Coast, for example the artist Killer Mike can play a lot of Canadian dates and end here on the East Coast. That is an important piece of the puzzle for us to coordinate around. We get together every fall to connect and share ideas of who could come join us. We also have a volunteer group and consult with friends and other experts in the field to listen to new ideas or suggestions for the performance.

Is there someone in particular that you are excited to see at this year's festival?

I can’t choose favorites since my role is working on the bookings for the festivals, but I am generally most excited for this festival in particular in the sense that every day there is something different to discover. You could have hiphop one night and a folk artist the next.

What are you going to bring to this year's festival that we have not yet seen in the past?

A lot of the wide range of artists we are bringing this year is larger than the past. At least speaking from my experience, since starting these festivals there are so many artists that are performing in different languages this year. We have Iraqi performers, Ukrainian performers, Venezuelan performers, and overall people are coming all over to perform bringing a wide range of cultures to the stage.

A performer he has asked/would love to come to Halifax that hasn’t? 

Lots of people. There are artists that I have tried to get and it just doesn't work out so sometimes you just get lucky. Some people I have been looking forward to have been Lake Street Dive, The Roots, Herbie Hancock, overall lots and lots of people that I would love to have.

Do you have a favorite performance that you have seen at Jazz fest?

There are definitely highlights, when it comes to booking something you never know how it is going to go prior to performing. Sometimes it exceeds your expectations and on occasion it doesn't meet your expectations. There have been many performances over the years and one performer that completely blew me away was Sheila E. She was a longtime collaborator with Prince. Overall there is something every year that blows me away.

Now as someone (such as myself) who doesn't listen to Jazz regularly can you tell me what this festival brings and why people all over Atlantic Canada come to see these performances from artists around the world?

This music festival is very unique if you look at a majority of the programming for the festival. If there isn't a genre you are super familiar with, there are daytime performances of the festival that are free to attend! From Weds-Sat of the festival there is free programming on the festival mainstage, and it features some amazing Jazz acts to get introduced to it. We also do a series of concerts at St. Matthew's United Church and we have some of the best guitarists in the world coming. We have an amazing guitarist Julian Lage and an amazing pianist named Emmet Cohen. I am almost certain that anyone that goes to see those shows, even if you aren't familiar with the genre, will find that it’s really amazing. Emmet Cohen, for example, is pretty classic Jazz but it will be a very upbeat and fun show to checkout.

Is there anything you have noticed from how the festival has changed ?

It has definitely evolved, we now have much bigger acts we wouldn't have before and the festival really has developed into Halifax’s premiere music festival. It’s changed because we obviously had a large change from the pandemic with online performance, so now we're really seeing the change and it's been interesting to see the difference from what we were before the pandemic to now. I feel like especially last year and hopefully this year the energy to get outside and see shows is really high, and I feel like people have a very positive outlook on live music now, so that's what I've seen and it's been very different.

What was the reason why you steered away from solely Jazz music?

Happened more organically. I think with the growth of the festival being the biggest festival in the province today, it is inclusive of people offering that wide variety of the festival but we wouldn't ever change the name of the festival because at the core of it its jazz music and we wouldn't want that to change. Also lots of people have different ideas on what Jazz is but as a genre it's so wide and expansive that it can include different genres of music. I think we are always including hip-hop which is black music and you can always trace the lineage to the original African American music which is Jazz so it's important to recognize that history.

Since starting out, what have you learned and taken away from these festivals?

I don't get as stressed as I used to. At the end of the day we put out our best efforts to make the festival as great as we can and the rest we can't control. I have learned to be even keeled about it and at the end of the day it doesn't do anyone any good freaking out while trying to organize. I play music and perform as well, and working for the Jazz Festival has taught me a lot about that side of the music business and what it takes. I see all of these artists' contracts and what they need to get ready to make a great performance so I can take that back to the bands I work with and bring that professionalism to my own music as well. 

Where are the outdoor venues this year!

Weekend series in the Hydrostone Market on the Saturday and Sunday of the festival. People come out with lawn chairs and can sit and it's awesome, it's lots of fun. We also have a series in Dartmouth at the alderney ferry park. We do a park stage and this year are partnering with the  African Nova Scotia Music Association running alongside the farmers market. It will start at 10am and go on until 3pm. There are kid friendly performances and it’s a lot of fun.

And there you have it, a taste of what the Jazz fest will look like through Andrew’s view. If you are inspired to learn more about the programming and getting tickets click here!

Can’t wait to see you all there and see some of Andrew's hard work come to life!

Did Someone say Yogi Summer??

One of the many gems of living in Halifax is that when searching for upcoming festivals “Yoga Fest” is not out of the question. I expected to sign up for a night of music and drinks and ended up with tickets to hang out with yogis in the BMO Soccer Centre? 

P.s for those worried I will be going back for the music tickets (balance is key).

I feel like I should be honest here and let you all know that growing up I was the class clown of yoga classes. I had a routine of sitting in the back, giggling while half upside down in the downwards dog position, and taking very little seriously (until the meditation at the end of class would roll around). Since then, I have grown to appreciate yoga. I will admit this started due to the fact that I often feel 10 years older than my age due to minimal stretching, but its grown to be a great outlet from life stresses since. The benefits of yoga are endless! Some being: improved sleep, stress reduction, balance, and an overall focus on both body and mind. It also happens to be the only form of physical activity that allows me to doze off a bit at the end without consequence. 

Although I have found a love for yoga within the past couple years, I haven't gotten back into it for some time since traveling and being away from home. This is why hearing about yoga fest was such exciting news ! The Atlantic Alliance of Uttar Bharat have invited us to come and learn about Uttar Bharat culture while hosting a day of Yoga. There will be different benefits found in each class (which are all free entry), ranging from meditation, deep relaxation, revitalizing energy, and more! This event has workshops and classes for everyone, and even better the tickets are free!!

If you are feeling inspired to practice some yoga at home, click here for some fun beginner poses to try out!

This event is going to be the best way to kickstart my yoga filled summer, and hopefully yours too.  :)

Goodbye future yogi’s ;)

Where to Hop-off Along Nova Scotia's Alternative Routes

The things that makes Nova Scotia special are its nooks and crannies, and our main mission at Alternative Routes is to help you to find them. Some of these places you will find on ALL of the lists, but some of them are select for the person who wants to get down and dirty (or be pampered, polished and primed) with this place. We wanted to make this exploring thing as easy as possible, so we've tried to narrow it down to some don't miss spots. They are pretty much in the order as you would see them on the route. Some are directly on the route, and some are what we like to call "off route." We've worked time into our schedule so that we can get someone where they need to go and still be on time, and most people don't seem to mind the in-depth Nova Scotia exploration. We like to be open-minded in the way we travel with respect to everyone's itinerary that way everyone gets the most out of their travels! First stop...

Peggy's Cove

Peggy’s Cove is home to one of the most picturesque lighthouses in the world. With the almost unbelievable population of around 600 people (of which 565 of them must live permanent hiding), Peggy’s Cove will take you to another time. A glacier carved the landscape in this area out over 2000 years ago, making it unique and a bit magical. Alternative Routes stops here every morning for at least half an hour. Which usually gives people enough time to get a picture of the lighthouse and take a little tour of the village.  If you choose to stay longer, we highly recommend staying with the gang at the Breakwater Inn, not only do they have the best guard dog on duty, it is run by a local lobster fisherman who can fill your mind and hopefully your belly with all that Peggy’s Cove has to offer. If we got you up too early and you need a jolt of caffeine Beale’s Bailiwick serves our favourite Java Blend Coffee. Oh! And don’t forget to get your passport stamped because that’s a thing you can do at Peggy’s Cove!

Queensland Beach

The thing no one wants to tell you about our beautiful Nova Scotia beaches is that they are cold! However! The cats now out of the bag; Queensland Beach is the place to be if you want not to freeze your toes off. This beach looks like it belongs in the Caribbean somewhere and ALMOST feels that way too. Sheltered in the bay, these waters heat up so nicely in the summer and they give way to the most powdery white sands. Because of this local secret, you often find a few of your newest closest friends nearby, but, if you are looking for something a little more peaceful, there are lots of little almost private nooks along this shore. This is a great place to hop off, especially with a bike. The communities are a bit spread out from one another, but some of the best bike trails are in this area. So, rent a bike in the city at I Heart Bicycles, and travel them all to see which one fits best. You can stay overnight at Halifax Backpackers new Beachside Hostel and bike yourself down to Sheila’s Too, where some people say the best Fish an’ Chips in Nova Scotia is served. If you want to read a bit more about this area, we wrote an even longer more specific blog about it- here! 

Chester

Chester used to be the playground to some of Maritime’s wealthiest summer stayers, and ever remains one of Nova Scotia’s wealthiest communities, and is filled with some of the prettiest houses and rose gardens you’ll see in the east. But don’t let that convince you that it isn’t filled with Nova Scotia’s inclusiveness and charm, because they’re full of it (Chester also happens to be home to the Alternative Routes fan club- inquire for more info). You can also find one of best theatres in Nova Scotia here, the Chester Playhouse. Chester is very close to Oak Island, where there is an active search for a treasure believed to be buried, well, really there are so many theories about what is buried, that’s part of the mystery.  If you’re looking for something more exotic that you can’t do many other places, Chester is the place where you catch the ferry to Tancook Island.  Tancook is home to approximately 200 people, and one of the last remaining one-room school houses in Canada.  We highly recommend staying at the Mecklenburgh Inn, everyone leaves here singing their high praises. And don’t forget to check out Black Market Boutique who is full of exotic treasures. And the chowder, don’t even get me started about the chowder at the Kiwi Café.

Mahone Bay

What can I say about Mahone Bay? See what I did there? Mahone Bay is the first corner you’ll turn and see all those colours of Nova Scotia you’ve been waiting for. Also around that corner, is the iconic photo seen in many of your guidebooks of the three churches- so Nova Scotia famous Emma Fitzgerald  ‘ painted it’ on the side of our rig. We don’t mind stopping here for a picture, so just ask. Mahone Bay has all the amenities you need for a longer stay if you so choose. They have shops, and restaurants, the wonderful Salt Box Brewery, and so many bakeries I can’t count.  To take the full advantage of the bay, we suggest staying at one of their ever-charming B&Bs. And don’t forget: we don’t mind going a little off route to get you where you need to go.  Be adventurous. . And our favourite things about Mahone Bay? They are one of the places you can find Cape LaHave Adventures. These guys can take your trip up a notch, and offer the fullest of adventures. Kayak to an Island? They got you covered. Yoga on your paddleboard? Yeah, they do that too. Your go-to for all things glamping and exploring on the south shore.

Lunenburg

 If Alternative Routes didn’t live in Halifax, we may just live in Lunenburg. This town once had me convinced it was a bustling metropolis of 20 000, but in fact the yearlong population on Lunenburg is 2000! But those 2000 people are as big as any 20 000 and they will make you feel that welcome. Lunenburg is the first of two UNESCO world heritage sites along our route, and is known for it’s particularly unique architecture and for being a good example of a planned British settlement, which is only one part of this town’s long history. As with a lot of Nova Scotia, Lunenburg can be best enjoyed with a bicycle, which, if you haven’t picked one up already, you can do at Rhumbline Bicycles, and if you didn’t stay a night in Blue Rocks, we suggests you take a cycle there, another option is bike to LaHave, especially the bakery! But you’ll need to take a ferry to get there, yes(!), another ferry! But don’t worry, the schedule is frequent, and the views are stunning. Don’t’ be afraid to ask the locals here about beaches in the area, if you pry hard enough- they may even tell you the good ones. And because I know you are going to ask, and one of my favourite things to do is eat, I will tell you where. Go to the Fish Shack for your classic fish and chips. If you are only stopping for lunch,  this is one of the best options for a seafood as they are used to feeding in a hurry, and if you want to class it up a notch, you can eat at their oyster bar right next door. My favourite place to get coffee in all of Nova Scotia is found here No 9 Coffee Bar. But don’t let their daytime guise fool you, this place swanks it up at night, and offers some of the most creatively tasty food by the very talented Amy Funk (who also paints).  If you are looking for the locals and can’t seem to find them the way you want them- Check out The Knot Pub, or just the Knot-if you want them to think you’re in the know.  

Blue Rocks

Everyone’s favourite Nova Scotia (sorta) secret. The small but mighty Blue Rocks is a quick bike ride away from Lunenburg, but don’t let that fool you into not staying here, because you can, and you can do it on your very own island in a yurt! I like to call this place the Peggy’s Cove without all the tourist. It’s a small fishing village tucked in these rocks that everyone says are blue. You can find one of the most charming shops on the planet here, The Point General, which is perfectly curated with all the Nova Scotia handmade favourites. Blue Rocks is another launching spot for adventure, where Pleasant Paddling, will take you to see what this cove has to explore and more. Blue Rocks is so authentic, even you might be Nova Scotian when you leave.

Hall's Harbour

Okay, so this one is a little off the route. But usually if you want to stop here, it isn’t hard to convince a group of people (or your driver) to see this Fundy Bay marvel. So small, Hall’s isn’t even a town or a village—it’s a hamlet. And it’s one of the best stops along the bay to see both extreme sides of the world’s largests tides. Though, you’ll have to stay overnight if you want to see both sides of the natural wonder, usually it’s a funny thing to see boats either sitting on the ground or trying to imagine. The accommodations in this area are a little harder to find, but with a little bit of Google sleuthing or a chat with us, we will be sure to find you a place to stay. We may even have one of the hottest insider tips.

Wolfville

Wolfville is your Annapolis Valley hub on the route, if you stay in this area for more than a few days, you may find yourself wandering to New Minas for some of the amenities, but you’ll want to stay in and around Wolfville. It’s our token university town on the tour and where you’ll find all the best grown foods and wine Nova Scotia offers.  Speaking of Universities, Wolfville is home to Acadia University, one of the many many universities in Nova Scotia and one of the oldest in Canada, and it’s worth a visit. Explore the outside of the campus, but do not miss the Environmental Science building along with the Harriet Irving Botanical Gardens, both of which offer an old time feeling of beauty and ornament that doesn’t quite exist in many places anymore. If the sun is shining and you want to get outside, we highly recommend visiting the surrounding areas of Port Williams and Canning, and especially Cape Blomidon, like a lot of places in Nova Scotia, this area is lacking in public transportation, but it does exist, so check out Kings Transit. From here you can easily take day trips to other places worth visiting in the Annapolis Valley.

Grand Pre

The second UNESCO world heritage site on our route, Grand Pre is so dense with Nova Scotia history, we recommend taking a day for it. However, sometimes we like to stop here at the end of the day before head back to explore the gardens. So, if you haven’t had an overnight stop here, let us know that you would like to visit and we will try to squeeze it in. Grand Pre is a step out of time, and you get to go back to the 1700s to learn about the Acadian History of Nova Scotia, and how they worked with the mig maw people to carve out the dykes and changes this vast landscape, and how they fought wars to protect the land they all loved so much. The views here are stunning as well as the gardens. Grand Pre is so close to Wolfville, it didn’t really need it’s own listing, but here also exists the Domaine de Grand Pre one of Nova Scotia’s finest and most beautiful wineries. If you are looking for gourmet eats, here is the place to find it at Caveau. For such a small place, Grand Pre is also home to one of Nova Scotia’s favourite and only unionized coffee roasters Just Us, and the Tangled Garden, that produces some of the most delicate of preserves and opens up their beautiful back yard garden to visitors.

Living the (Puerto) Dream

*** none of these photos are relevant to this blog post, but it's beautiful here, so enjoy! 

Since the beginning of Alternative Routes, I’ve debated how personal I want to be in my social media presence. In the age of the selfie, a big part of me is terrified I might get sucked into the narcissistic vortex of the social media circus, but another part of me knows that what makes travelling with Alternative Routes unique, is my ability to be open and share with the people around me. I want to keep that part of this venture real and visible, because really it’s the reason I’m doing all this, travelling and starting AR, to keep sharing unique experiences with interested people. 

I wondered if I should share with you my trip to Mexico, and how I could make it relevant to AR’s fans and passengers. Can you believe I almost forgot who you were?  I understand now that of course me taking a trip to Mexico is relevant. Because, for the first time in a long time, I remember what it feels like to be a traveller!  For too long I’ve been hosting people in the vulnerable position of getting to know a new place without getting away and being in that position myself. This time it’s me that get’s to be blown away by the unfamiliar landscapes, smells and food, and the new palettes of colour, the most beautiful colours! I’ve been reminded of the value of authentic travel experiences and feel more in touch with what it is I set out to do in the beginning. 

Wow! Are we lucky people, the one’s who chose to travel.  I’m sitting in a blissful daze in my Airbnb in San Cristobal de las Casas, freezing my ass off under a blanket, so happy to be getting some weird sort of vacation from my vacation. Everyone does this right? Takes “me time” in their travels? Time to veg, in whatever form that takes for them, time to process all the new experiences they've had, the people they've met, and the drinks! But only enough time to remember how nice it was to be on the Pacific Ocean playing in the waves drinking Mezcal Margarita’s with the boys back at Puerto Dreams. Making decisions is hard when you travel. There are always so many places to go, so many people talking about beautiful things you need to see, it’s amazing anyone ever gets out the door in the first place. 

The good people from Dalhousie’s school of Planning invited me this week to present at their PechaKucha fundraiser, and although I have no idea how I did with my slides and scattered brained chatter (prerecorded from this very same room), I hope that somehow I touched the people there with my desperate rant about how important public transportation to rural places in Nova Scotia is to enhance the cultural experience of this place for everyone. Because of Mexico’s extensive transportation system my trip has been fuller than I ever could have imagined. I’ve travelled to four cities in two weeks with six different modes of transportation, not including the plane that got me here. The options here are so vast, I even met a couple that chartered a plane for a much too reasonable price, and yes, they arrived with all their limbs! 

So it seems this working holiday, that was starting to look just like a regular holiday, got me back to my roots. Reminded me of how Alternative Routes came about in the first place. My imagination is running wild, and I’m picturing being in your shoes again, I (almost) can’t wait to get home to plan all the ways how this second summer can be better than the last.  And now since I’ve found my roots and vulnerability, I think I will be able to share it with you more sincerely than I would have before, because to me, AR is more than just a shuttle, and it's more than a way to travel, it’s a way of living.

Hubbards, Chester, and Mahone Bay--Oh My!

I’m sure the people from these towns would hoot and holler that I am grouping them all in one blog, but until I learn more about each (dear residents: feel free to leave your suggestions in the comments at the end), I just don’t have enough to say to give each place a category of it’s own. So, I’m going to go in route order, as to not step on any more toes.

 Hubbards is exactly the kind of place that made me want to start Alternative Routes, because unless someone tells you directly to stop there, you probably won’t. What brought me in at first were the antique shops, one in particular really, right off the lighthouse route, beside another place worth stopping— The Trellis Café. I don’t know much about the owner, although he always seems to be there, and available, and charming. The place is sort of spectacular, an eclectic mix of mid century side boards at $8000 and classic nova scotia rag rugs, mine I negotiated, bought and loved for $60. There is easily something for everyone here, and lots of little local treasures, including handmade items.

Hubbards also boasts having Nova Scotia’s smallest provincial park and 10 beaches all within close driving distance to one another. They are a community with a lot of earned pride, and work hard to promote their local economy. One mainstay is the Shore Club, a place that claims to be the host of the “Original Nova Scotia Lobster Supper” and the “Last of the Great Dance Halls.”  

Next on the line is Chester, one of my favourite little hubs in Nova Scotia. And I know I’m not the only one. Known world wide for Chester Race week that takes place August 13 to 16th and has been around for more than 150 years. But, Chester is about more than sail boats. Until the Nova Scotia liberal government squashed out all their resources, there was a once booming film industry in Chester. Yes, really. Don’t believe me— Dolores Clairbourne, Two if by Sea, and the television series Haven were all shot in Chester.

When people ask me for my Nova Scotia chowder recommendation, I have to tell them about The Kiwi Café. I’m not sure what a classic Nova Scotia chowder is supposed to be, but I imagine anyone who eats this one full of lobster and haddock, won’t care. It’s delicious. Barely a potato in sight, and I’m pretty sure a full lobster in each bowl, the only rival it has is my own and maybe my grandmothers. If seafood is what you are after, you can’t go wrong with this chowder. They have other fair as well, all day breakfast, sandwiches; they use Java Blend Coffee (locally roasted in Halifax since 1938), bread from La Have Bakery and sell four-dollar farm fresh eggs. They even carry specialty items that you probably can’t find anywhere else in Chester, like Thai curry pastes and Comptoire du Sud sugar cubes. I’ve never actually tried their take home meals, but I imagine they are as seriously delicious as everything else I’ve tried.

Mahone Bay must be as famous for it’s harbour view as it was for wooden boat building back in the day. If you’re on our route, you’ll get the best view as we drive in to the town. Everyone oh and ahs over the three churches that tower over the water, each one a different denomination and each differently beautiful in it’s own way. I’m not sure why exactly this has become such a spectacular thing to see, but when you see it, there is something a little quirky and strange about the whole deal, but mostly it’s just beautiful. The harbour itself is full of small islands—some are even populated. If you missed Amos Pewter when we were at Peggy’s Cove you can always make up for it here. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, this is the location where everything gets made, so if you’re luck and stop in at the right time, you might be able to see how it’s all done. If you happen to miss something being made, the staff is super knowledgeable and happy to tell you everything there is to know about pewter in Nova Scotia. If you’re into learning on your trip, you should check out the wooden boat-building museum. Shipbuilding is how Mahone Bay got its start.