Eddie Carvery’s trailer on the Africville Museum site. A camper trailer, painted with the words Africville Protest, sits on a plot of grass with the Bedford Basin in the background.
Back in November, I was confronted with a truth I couldn’t ignore: despite making sure all our passengers know of its history when they leave Nova Scotia, I had never been to the Africville museum myself. A friend was visiting from Montreal, a friend who recently heard about Africville for the first time, and naturally, as a black woman on her first visit to Nova Scotia, Naomi wanted to learn about the long history that existed here. Surprised doesn’t exactly express what I felt when I realized just how hard this was going to be, for a place that is full of black history, finding signs of it became a real challenge.
The excuse I think I would use if you asked me why I hadn’t visited, is that I have a lot of rage about Africville: about only finding out the story when I moved to Halifax almost 20 years ago, how it took them 47 years to realize the importance and devastation they created when they displaced hundreds of people to make room for a bridge, and how they made it impossible to get to. The inaccessibility of the Africville Museum has been a slap in the face to the people who were forcibly removed from the town and to anyone wanting to know more about it. It’s hard enough to visit the museum if you have a car, but if you don't, the closest you can get with a bus lands you a twenty-minute walk away.
Before we made it down to the museum, as an entrepreneur herself, Naomi was rattling off ideas about what could be done, why don’t they have black vendors around the museum? Some shops? She asked. I know she was struggling to understand when I said it just wouldn’t work, no one would go there. Not fully understanding how I meant that geographically it was just not the most pleasant place to get to. Trying to explain this to Naomi almost turned into a comedy of errors, because I don’t think she believed me when I tried to say it wasn’t because people don’t want to go, it was just a very inhospitable location to visit. But when we got there, in the middle of the day on a Saturday, and it was closed, even the parking lot barricaded (something you rarely see in Halifax), it was me who had the awakening. Imagining someone trying to get there without a car wasn’t the only obstacle. Neither of us could imagine why a museum of such importance would be closed on a weekend when most visitors would be making attempts to visit. And the full weight of the difficulty in getting there sunk in further when we got stopped for 30 minutes by a train trying to leave.
Are you still asking: what is Africville? Africville is a story that’s often overlooked when talking about the history of Canada, but it’s incredibly important to understanding the roots of Black Nova Scotians. Africville was a vibrant community in Halifax, founded in the 1800s by freed African Americans and Black Loyalists. One of 52 similar towns in Nova Scotia. Read that one more time, would ya? 52 towns! In the 1800s, years before abolition in America. Residents of Seaview faced complete neglect from the city, despite paying the same municipal taxes as the white citizens, residents of Seaview (Africville’s official name) weren’t given the same infrastructure, like municipal water service, electricity, garbage collections, etc. In the 1960s, the city forcibly relocated the residents to make way for the A. Murray MacKay Bridge and port developments, leading to years of protests from former residents who managed to hold them off for a few years.
First, they offered residents a place in a housing development, luring them with the promise of electricity, running water, and other municipal services they craved and deserved, in exchange for the deeds to their houses. Some refused to leave, and in 1967, the government of Halifax, with no regard for the residents who remained, went in with bulldozers and flattened the town, those who were left were sent running with what they had on their backs. Africville became a symbol of systemic racism and the struggles faced by Black communities in Canada, but it wasn’t until 1996 that it was officially recognized as a National Historic Site. Fast forward to 2010, when the city issued an apology and began compensating descendants of the evicted families. Now, there's a museum and a replica of Seaview United Baptist Church, but despite this, as evidenced by our attempt, it’s almost impossible to get to, leaving most people, even many citizens, unaware of its significance.
As we attempted and failed to get into the museum, we were left with the surrounding park and some panels telling the stories. I told her the story of Eddie Carvery, whose trailer remains on the site, and whose protest of the Africville destruction is considered the longest civil rights protest in Canadian history, something I definitely didn’t read about in our history books. She asked me where else we could go, and I’m not sure if it’s my ignorance or a true lack of sites describing the black history of this city. So, we headed to the library, where we did find a few books, but we both walked away frustrated and disappointed at what little we could find.
So with a little more time on my hands, and less urgency I decided to compile a list of places you can visit to learn more about the history of black Nova Scotians, which only led to more disappointment, because it wasn’t that I needed more time to find them, there just aren’t that many. I planned to make a list, and this is what I found.
In Halifax:
Africville Museum (5795 Africville Rd, Halifax)
A small museum built as a replica of the Seaview United Baptist Church. As mentioned, I have not yet been inside, but that doesn’t mean you can’t go. Their hours are Monday to Friday from 10am-4pm. Even if you can’t get there during these meager opening hours, I will say getting down to the site is worth it. There are panels of information, and honestly, it just felt good to be there, imagining and honouring what once was there before.
Viola Desmond Tribute (2300 Gottingen St) and grave site at Camphill Cemetery (1600 Summer St):
Viola Desmond made history in 1946 when she refused to leave a whites-only section of a movie theater in New Glasgow, Nova Scotia. She was arrested and fined, but her act of defiance sparked a fight for civil rights in Canada. Rosa Parks is the story we all know because of her similar actions in the U.S., but Viola’s story went largely unnoticed for years. Today, finally, her story can not be forgotten, as you will find her on the back of the Canadian $10 bill.
3.Hope Blooms (2346 Brunswick St, Halifax)
Though not officially a Black heritage site, Hope Blooms is located in Uniake Square, one of those public housing developments created to justify displacing people from Africville. It is a community-driven organization that empowers its kids through gardening and entrepreneurship. Hope Blooms is a symbol of resilience, giving back to the community and transforming a space tied to hardship into one of inspiration.
*They don’t have a retail store on site, but they have a farmers market every Thursday from 4:30 to 6:30, June through September.
4.Black Cultural Centre for Nova Scotia (10 Cherry Brook Rd, Cherry Brook NS):
The centre was created to protect and preserve Black culture in Nova Scotia. Its exhibits tell stories of resilience and triumph, from the arrival of Black people in Nova Scotia in the 1600s to the ongoing fight for equality. The centre also serves as a pillar for keeping the community connected, hosting events, renting venues, and keeping everyone informed.
An honourable mention goes to the Halifax Central Library, though it’s not a site specifically dedicated to the black community in Nova Scotia, we did find quite a bit of information and stories in the archives.
That’s disappointingly it for Halifax that I’m aware of.
Must visit outside Halifax:
Black Loyalist Heritage Centre (119 Old Birch Town Rd, Birchtown)
The Black Loyalist Heritage Centre tells the powerful story of Black Loyalists—enslaved Africans who gained freedom by fighting for the British during the American Revolution. The centre highlights their struggles, hopes, and the difficulties they faced when they settled in Nova Scotia. They have interactive displays, artifacts, and you can learn more about the impact of their contributions to Canadian history.
Because we ended up so disappointed by our search we decided to make up for it by diving into some other content. She introduced me to Afro-Canada, a CBC production in 4 parts, which is a bit of documentary, a bit of historical reenactment, and a bit art piece, all in all, a worthy watch. I learned so much more to add to the stories we tell on tour. Another piece of journalism that I found very profound that added to my knowledge of Canadian history was an episode of the Canadaland Commons Podcast about hockey in Canada, this episode in particular taught me the significant impact black Nova Scotians had in the development of the sport in this country.
These holidays and history months can sometimes feel like empty symbolic gestures, we wait for our government to make significant changes and they create memorials and holidays, but I think what we forget is that we can also be the ones to give them meaning, even if only for ourselves. Take even just a minute to reflect on what Black History means in your story, and how it impacts your community and the people you love. But probably better if you take at least 36 minutes and listen to this podcast, a couple of hours to learn some history, or make the effort to visit a black-owned business or cultural site. The strength of the historical narrative grows when more people know the stories.